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Cross Bikes
 Cyclo-cross bicycles roughly resemble the racing bicycles used in road racing. The major differences between the two are that cyclo-cross frames have wider clearances, knobby tires, cantilever brakes, and lower gears. As a high-end bicycle purpose-built for a specific sport competition, they also differ from ordinary cross bikes, which are general-purpose utility bikes fitted with slightly wider 700C tires for use on unpaved paths or trails.
Cyclo-cross bike design and frame geometry has varied over the years. Choose the same size frame you use for road racing, but with extra seat stay, chain stay and fork crown clearance. This helps prevent the build-up of mud and other debris that can add unwanted rolling resistance. You also need a higher-than-normal bottom bracket to prevent pedals from rubbing against the ground. Water-bottle braze-ons are unnecessary - cyclo-cross races are too short to pack a bottle on your bike, and the bottle would be in the way when you shouldering your bike.
When fitting your 'cross bike, your saddle height should be 1 cm lower and stem length 1 cm shorter. This allows for more body movement when maneuvering your bike in technical sections. A 13-26 cog set should be sufficient (if you need more than a 26-tooth cog, it may be time to start running). Use a high-quality road derailleur or a short-cage mountain bike derailleur. Up front you may choose to use a single chain ring, probably no more than a 46-tooth, but you should run a chain guide to keep the chain on the ring over bumpy sections. If you decide to use two chain rings, a 48/42-tooth combo is standard.If you decide to use two bikes - and a spare is a good idea, since cyclo-cross can be hard on equipment. Strive for consistency in equipment. When you have to jump off one bike and onto another, it's important that your shift levers, saddle and other components be in the same places.
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